At Casa Montaña in Valencia, Spain, we tasted leeks poached in olive oil until meltingly soft and finished with a sweet-tart balsamic glaze. This is our re-creation of that delicious side. When shopping for this recipe, look for leeks that are slender, with long white and light green sections, as these are the desirable parts (the dark green tops are too tough for braising). Leeks’ many layers trap sand and dirt, so it’s important to wash them thoroughly before cooking, then dry them well so they brown, rather than steam, in the oil.