Welcome to this week’s episode of the Flavor of Italy Podcast, where I explore the heart of Italian culture, uncovering its rich landscape of flavors, stories, and hidden gems. Today, we’re stepping into the tranquil and enchanting world of Via Margutta, a street nestled between Piazza del Popolo and the Spanish Steps. If you’re yearning for a peaceful retreat away from the tourist-packed streets of Rome, Via Margutta is your sanctuary.
But this street is more than just a quiet getaway—it’s a living, breathing tribute to centuries of artistic brilliance and cultural evolution. Join me as we uncover the fascinating history, notable residents, and vibrant cultural life of Via Margutta. Plus, I’ll share links and resources to help you make the most of your visit.
A Journey Through Time: The Humble Beginnings of Via Margutta
Let’s start with a bit of history. Originally, Via Margutta was merely a service lane for the grand palaces of Via del Babuino. It was a place of stables, warehouses, and the modest homes of grooms, masons, marble workers, and coachmen. This unassuming street catered to the noble households but was far from the elegant and serene escape it is today.
The name “Via Margutta” comes with its own set of intriguing stories. One theory suggests it was named after Margutte, a rather unremarkable barber known for his dullness. Another possibility is that the name derives from the Margut family, or perhaps from “Marisgutta,” meaning “Sea Drop,” referencing a dirty brook that once flowed through the street. These less-than-glamorous origins only highlight how dramatically the street has transformed over the centuries.
The Artistic Evolution of Via Margutta
The magic of Via Margutta truly began in the Middle Ages when an unknown craftsman established the first workshop on the street. This workshop produced portraits, fountains, and railings, sparking a migration of artists drawn to the peaceful and secluded ambiance. Over time, the stables and shacks gave way to charming homes, lush gardens, and vibrant studios.
By the 17th century, Via Margutta had become synonymous with art, attracting painters, sculptors, and craftsmen not only from Italy but also from across Europe—particularly Britain and Germany. Imagine walking through the street during its heyday, with artists bustling about, their studios filled with the aroma of fresh paint and the sound of chisels shaping marble.
Monsignor de Merode’s Vision
The street’s transformation continued in the 19th century under the guidance of Monsignor Francesco Saverio de Merode, a Belgian nobleman who recognized Via Margutta’s potential. He installed sewers, reconstructed the street, and transformed it into a respectable and sought-after address for artists. His efforts cultivated a vibrant, cosmopolitan community that flourished with artistic and intellectual activity.
A Hub for Luminaries: Artists, Writers, and Composers
As Via Margutta blossomed, it became home to an extraordinary array of talents. Among the notable painters were Pablo Picasso, Giorgio de Chirico, and Novella Parigini. Renowned composers such as Wagner, Liszt, Puccini, and Mascagni also walked its cobblestone paths, as did literary figures like Emile Zola, Gabriele d’Annunzio, Jean-Paul Sartre, and Simone de Beauvoir.
In the mid-20th century, Via Margutta’s fame reached new heights thanks to the iconic film Roman Holiday, starring Audrey Hepburn and Gregory Peck. This classic not only brought international attention to the street but also solidified its place as a symbol of Hollywood romance intertwined with European charm.
A Modern-Day Stroll Through Via Margutta
Today, strolling down Via Margutta feels like stepping into a living museum. The street beautifully blends the past with the present, featuring ivy-covered façades, artisanal workshops, and quaint galleries at every turn. Here’s a guide to a few of the must-see spots:
Federico Fellini’s Residence
At number 110, you’ll find the former residence of legendary Italian director Federico Fellini and his wife, Giulietta Masina. Fellini famously described Via Margutta as a “vertical landscape submerged in greenery,” a description that perfectly encapsulates its enchanting atmosphere.
La Bottega del Marmoraro
At number 53b, don’t miss La Bottega del Marmoraro, a traditional marble workshop founded in 1967. The Fiorentini family crafts exquisite marble tablets inscribed with Latin and Italian phrases, making this the perfect spot for a unique Roman souvenir.
Roman Holiday Location
At number 51, you’ll find the building featured in Roman Holiday. This modest structure has become a landmark for fans of the film, drawing visitors eager to relive the romance of Audrey Hepburn and Gregory Peck’s timeless love story.
Palazzo Moncada and Artists’ Courtyard
Continue to Margutta 54, the historic Palazzo Moncada. Once the studios of over 1,800 artists—including Picasso—this courtyard now serves as an exclusive luxury retreat, but the echoes of its artistic past are still palpable.
Cultural Celebrations and Iconic Spots
Each year in late October, Via Margutta celebrates its artistic legacy with the Cento Pittori event. Since 1953, this festival has transformed the street into an open-air gallery, showcasing the work of artists from around the world. It’s a vibrant celebration that brings the community together and honors the street’s rich cultural heritage.
At the end of your walk, be sure to visit the Fontana degli Artisti (Fountain of the Artists), designed by Pietro Lombardi in 1927. This small but significant fountain, adorned with masks and a bucket of paintbrushes, pays tribute to the street’s artistic soul.
Famous Residents and Their Stories
Over the years, Via Margutta has been home to many famous figures. Beyond Fellini, the street also hosted Truman Capote, who reportedly stayed here while working on Beat the Devil. The street’s charm attracted composer Igor Stravinsky and many others who found inspiration in its peaceful, creative environment.
Why Visit Via Margutta?
So, why should you make a detour to Via Margutta on your next trip to Rome? This street offers a respite from the tourist-packed surrounding avenues and an intimate look into the city’s artistic and cultural heart. Its serene charm, historical significance, and rich patrimony make it a must-visit for anyone seeking to experience the true essence of Rome.
My painter friend Andrea Smith is one of the artists who has a studio on the exquisite Via Margutta. She paints market produce and runs painting programs for aspiring artists.
For more information, resources, and travel tips, check out my Via Margutta deep-dive Substack newsletter with detailed information about fabulous shops, hotels, and must eat venues. Whether you’re an art lover, a history enthusiast, or a curious traveler, Via Margutta promises an unforgettable journey through Rome’s artistic past and present.
Happy exploring, and don’t forget to share your Via Margutta experiences with me in the comment section below!
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